Rubens's landscape with a large wooded Roman ruin at left and the smaller round San Teodoro church near the Palatine Hill at right Buy Art Prints Now
from Amazon

* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.


by
Tom Gurney BSc (Hons) is an art history expert with over 20 years experience
Published on June 19, 2020 / Updated on October 14, 2026
Email: tomgurney1@gmail.com / Phone: +44 7429 011000

Rome remembered in a painted landscape

A dark ruin rises from a wooded slope on the left. Across the opening to the right, a much smaller round building comes into view. Trees, stone, water and tiny figures fill the space between them. The picture invites us to read it as a view of ancient Rome, yet its architecture refuses to behave like a single, exact record of a place. That mixture is central to Peter Paul Rubens's Landscape with the Ruins of the Palatine Hill in Rome.

The Louvre catalogues the painting as MI 966[1], oil on wood, measuring 76 × 107 centimetres. Its catalogue gives 1614–18 as a possible date. Rubens had lived in Italy from 1600 to 1608, so the proposed date places the painting several years after he left. The Louvre describes a composition assembled from remembered graphic material. That is a more useful starting point than treating the scene as a sketch made at the ruins in front of him.

The inherited route uses “Mount Palatine”; the museum's French title, Paysage avec les ruines du mont Palatin à Rome, translates naturally as “Landscape with the Ruins of the Palatine Hill in Rome.” Both point to Rome's Palatine, but the longer form preserves the distinction between a named place and the painting's constructed view. The title names a subject; it does not promise that every stone corresponds to a surveyed ruin.

At a Glance

  • ArtistPeter Paul Rubens [1]
  • DatePerhaps 1614–18 [1]
  • MediumOil on wood [1]
  • Dimensions76 × 107 cm [1]
  • CollectionMusée du Louvre, MI 966 [1]
  • Roman landmarksPalatine Hill and San Teodoro; left ruin partly invented [1]

Where this work sits in Rubens's career

Contents

  1. Two sides of the Roman view
  2. Trees, water and the path through the picture
  3. Why paint Rome after leaving Italy?
  4. An early landscape beside Rubens's later ones
  5. The engraving's misleading inscription
  6. From Louis La Caze to the Louvre

Two sides of the Roman view

Look first at the large structure on the left. Its masonry appears heavily broken, with an opening and a surviving mass that pulls the eye upward. Dark foliage encloses it and makes its form seem older and heavier. The architecture is not a neat landmark set apart for identification. It has become part of the slope, as if growth and weather had absorbed it into the landscape.

The Louvre's description[1] calls this ruin more or less invented. It says the form resembles the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. “Resembles” is the important word. The museum does not identify the left-hand building as a faithful view of that basilica. A viewer who recognizes Roman vaults can use the resemblance as a clue to the painting's imaginative vocabulary, not as a map coordinate.

On the right, the museum finds a more accurate view of the Palatine, including the small round church of San Teodoro on the hill's flank. In the image, the round building is modest beside the dramatic left-hand ruin. Its compact outline provides a point of recognition, but it does not turn the entire composition into topographical reportage. Rubens brought a more specific Roman feature into a scene whose other half he freely reshaped.

The difference between those halves gives the painting much of its tension. The left is monumental, shadowed and hard to measure. The right opens outward toward smaller buildings and pale distance. A viewer can move from the near ruin to the farther church, testing what feels observed and what feels invented. The painting's pleasure lies partly in that movement, rather than in locating one fixed viewpoint from which every feature can be seen.

Trees, water and the path through the picture

Although the title foregrounds ruins, the architecture does not stand alone. Trees press around the left-hand mass, softening its outline while deepening its shade. Lower ground and a strip of water carry the eye across the middle and foreground. Small people near the lower right give a sense of scale: the ruins seem larger because human presence is so slight. Their presence also prevents the scene from becoming an empty architectural study.

The composition can be read in layers. A dark near edge and earthy banks anchor the foreground. The broken masonry and wooded hill create a crowded middle zone. Toward the right, the eye finds a lighter, more open prospect. The diagonal passage through these zones makes the painted world seem wider than the panel's actual 107-centimetre width. This is a visual reading of the surviving image, not a claim that Rubens followed a measured route across the Roman site.

Light helps connect elements that might otherwise feel assembled. Warm passages around the ruins and paler tones beyond them encourage the eye to travel between different kinds of stone, foliage and sky. The monumental ruin receives attention through its dark mass; the distant buildings ask for slower looking. Neither side has to be a literal panorama for the landscape to feel coherent. Rubens makes the changing scale and atmosphere do that work.

The figures are easy to miss beside the building and trees. That is part of their function. They inhabit the setting without controlling it. They are not identified by the Louvre as a documented historical episode, and nothing in the catalogue requires us to make them named characters. In a painting about a remembered Roman place, their small scale sets human activity against the apparent endurance and decay of architecture.

Why paint Rome after leaving Italy?

Rubens's Italian residence ended in 1608, while the Louvre proposes perhaps 1614–18 for this panel. Its record explicitly states that the landscape was painted after his Italian stay. That sequence rules out an easy description of the finished oil as an on-site Roman study. He could retain views through sketches and memory, then organize them differently in a later painting. The Louvre's wording, “graphic memories,” points to that process without identifying a particular surviving drawing as this picture's direct source.

The museum also names the influence of Paul Bril and Titian. These are broad artistic relationships in its account of the composition. They do not mean that a specific Bril landscape or Titian canvas has been proved to be the template for MI 966. Bril is an apt name in a discussion of Northern artists and Roman landscape: the Getty's study of Rubens and Jan Brueghel[3] describes Bril as an Antwerp landscape specialist active in Rome whose atmospheric views helped shape the taste for such pictures. The Louvre's reference to Titian signals a second, Italian tradition against which it reads Rubens's handling of landscape.

The result is neither a purely imagined fantasy nor a neutral view. The round San Teodoro and the Palatine reference make the subject recognizably Roman. The left-hand ruin shows Rubens adapting that setting to pictorial needs. The painting allows a large, dark form to balance a smaller, more precise landmark. Recollection and invention are practical tools of composition, not defects to be corrected against a modern photograph.

It is tempting to say that the ruined building represents the fall of an empire or that the figures stage a particular moral lesson. Ruins can invite such thoughts, but the Louvre object entry[1] does not attach a specific allegory to this painting. The strongest supported reading is visual and historical: Rubens combined Roman references and landscape traditions into a view made after his journey. A personal response to the mood of the scene is welcome, provided it remains a response rather than a documented artist's intention.

An early landscape beside Rubens's later ones

The Palatine picture becomes clearer when set beside Rubens's landscapes from other points in his career. The National Gallery in London[4] notes that most of his landscapes were made in the last five years of his life. Its A Landscape with a Shepherd and his Flock, dated about 1638, belongs to that later period and evokes the countryside of his native region. The Louvre's proposed 1614–18 date makes the Palatine painting an earlier work, still drawing visibly on Italian experience.

This is a comparison between two distinct paintings, not a claim that one directly prepared the other. The later National Gallery picture uses a broad view and strong diagonals to convey space, light and air. The Palatine panel also guides the eye between near ground and distance, but its Roman subject makes architecture and artistic memory especially conspicuous. The comparison helps us see Rubens's continuing interest in landscape while respecting the different subjects and dates.

The later pictures around his estate at Het Steen are sometimes used as a shorthand for “Rubens landscape.” They should not make this earlier Roman view disappear. It asks a different question: how can an artist paint a place once seen, or known through drawings, so that it functions as a convincing picture years afterward? Here, selective precision and deliberate alteration work together. The identifiable church gives the scene a foothold; the invented ruin gives it weight and drama.

The engraving's misleading inscription

The painting was also translated into print. The Louvre says an engraving by Schelte Bolswert[1] carries the Latin words “pinxit Romae,” meaning “painted in Rome.” Taken alone, that could sound like evidence that Rubens completed the oil during his stay there. The same Louvre entry explicitly warns against reading the inscription literally. It allows that the phrase may have been supplied by the engraver or the print's publisher.

The print therefore tells us something about how the composition circulated and how its Roman identity was advertised. It does not outweigh the museum's dating and description of a post-Italian painting. The author of a print inscription is not necessarily the painter of the source image, and a printed line can simplify or embellish an object's origin. That distinction matters especially here because the scene already looks so convincingly Roman at first glance.

The Louvre names Bolswert but does not supply, in this object entry, a dated sequence that would let us reconstruct each stage from oil painting to engraving. We can say that the painting was engraved and that the engraving bears the disputed phrase. We cannot turn that into a precise date for the panel, a proven Roman studio location, or a documented commission. The gap is a limit of the surviving evidence, not a reason to ignore the print altogether.

From Louis La Caze to the Louvre

The Louvre's published ownership history begins with Dr Louis La Caze (1798–1869) in Paris. He left the painting to the museum in his 1869 bequest. Those are the firm provenance points in the current online record. It does not set out a continuous chain of owners from Rubens's studio to La Caze, and it does not identify the first buyer or patron.

La Caze's bequest gives the panel a secure modern collection identity. The Louvre catalogues it under MI 966, credits Rubens, and records oil on wood at 76 × 107 centimetres. These details separate the original painting from impressions of Bolswert's print and from other landscapes by Rubens. A print after a painting, however persuasive as an image, has its own maker, medium, size and history.

Current gallery room numbers can change, so the stable way to identify the work is the museum and its inventory number. Visitors and researchers can use the Louvre's live object record[1] to check its present display information. For an account of the painting itself, the enduring facts are the object, its post-Italian dating proposal, its mixed Roman architecture and its nineteenth-century entry into the Louvre.

Rubens artworks directory

128 artworks

NameDateMedium
A Seated Lion / Study of a Seated LionCirca 1612–1613Drawing
Adam and Eve1598–1600Painting
Albert Rubens in Profile to the LeftCirca 1619Drawing
Allegory of Emperor Charles V as Ruler of the WorldCirca 1604Painting
An Autumn Landscape with a View of Het Steen in the Early MorningProbably 1636Painting
Atalanta and Meleager Hunting the Calydonian Boar1635–1640Painting
Bildnis einer Frau / Portrait of a Woman (traditionally identified as Isabella Brant)Painting
Christ on the Cross / Christus aan het kruis (oil modello)1628Painting
Cows, Study for a PaintingDrawing
Daniel in the Lions' DenCirca 1614–1616Painting
Das Opfer Abrahams / The Sacrifice of Abraham (drawing after Titian)Drawing
Der Triumph des Siegers / The Triumph of VictoryCirca 1614Painting
Diana and CallistoCirca 1635Painting
Don Diego Messía (Mexía) Felipe de Guzmán, Marquis of LeganésDrawing
Epitaph of Nicolaas Rockox and His Wife Adriana Perez (traditionally The Incredulity of Thomas)1613–1615Painting
Equestrian Portrait of Giovan Carlo Doria / Ritratto di Giovan Carlo Doria a cavallo1607–1608Painting
Equestrian Portrait of the Duke of Lerma1603Painting
Ex-voto: Virgin and Child with portraits of the donors Alexandre Goubau and Anna AnthonyPainting
Ganymede / Ganymed1611–1612Painting
Georges Villiers, Herzog von Buckingham / George Villiers, Duke of BuckinghamDrawing
Gesatteltes Pferd / Saddled HorseCirca 1615–1618Drawing
Head of a Woman with Downcast Eyes (study for the Madonna of the Ildefonso Altarpiece)Drawing
I quattro filosofi / The Four PhilosophersCirca 1611–1612Painting
Ignudo Turning to the Right (after Michelangelo)Circa 1606Drawing
Juno and ArgusCirca 1610Painting
La Marche de Silène / The Procession of SilenusDrawing
Lamentation over the Dead Christ / Compianto su Cristo morto1601–1602Painting
Landscape with Philemon and BaucisPainting
Landscape with St George and the Dragon1630–1635Painting
Landscape with the Ruins of the Palatine Hill in Rome / Paysage avec les ruines du mont Palatin à RomeCirca 1614–1618Painting
Leda and the Swan (Stephen Mazoh collection version)Before 1600Painting
Les Pèlerins d'Emmaüs / The Supper at Emmaus (Saint-Eustache version)Circa 1608–1611Painting
Madonna della Vallicella Adored by Angels / Madonna con Bambino e angeli1606–1608Painting
Madonna in a Garland of Flowers / Madonna im BlumenkranzCirca 1616–1618Painting
Madonna Surrounded by Saints / Madonna met heiligenCirca 1630Painting
Marchesa Brigida Spinola Doria1606Painting
Marchesa Maria Serra Pallavicino (?)1606Painting
Marie de Medici, Queen of FranceCirca 1622Painting
Mercury and Argus / Merkur und ArgusCirca 1635–1638Painting
Neptune Calming the Tempest (Quos Ego); modello for the Cardinal Infante's voyage1635Painting
Nikolaus RubensDrawing
Ochse / OxCirca 1618Drawing
Old Woman and Boy with CandlesCirca 1616–1617Painting
Pan and SyrinxCirca 1617Painting
Perseus and AndromedaPainting
Perseus frees Andromeda1620–1622Painting
Philippe Rubens, the Artist's Brother1610Painting
Portrait du duc de Lerma / Study for the Equestrian Portrait of the Duke of LermaCirca 1603Drawing
Portrait of a Bearded Man / Bildnis eines Mannes mit VollbartCirca 1604–1605Drawing
Portrait of a Man, Possibly an Architect or Geographer1597Painting
Portrait of Aletheia Talbot, Countess of Arundel1620Painting
Portrait of Anne of Austria, Queen of FranceCirca 1622Painting
Portrait of George Gerbier, son of Balthasar Gerbier (identification qualified)1629–1630Drawing
Portrait of Isabella Brant (portrait drawing)Circa 1620–1621Drawing
Portrait of Louis XIII, King of FranceCirca 1622Painting
Portrait of Marie de Médicis as a Triumphant QueenPainting
Portrait of Nicolas Trigault in Chinese Costume1617Drawing
Portrait of the Emperor Charles V (after Titian)Circa 1603–1605Painting
Prometheus BoundPainting
Romulus and Remus / Romolo e Remo1612Painting
Rubens and Isabella Brant in the Honeysuckle BowerCirca 1609–1610Painting
Saint George and the Dragon1606–1608Painting
Saint Gregory with Saints, venerating the Madonna of Vallicella1606–1607Painting
Saint James the Greater / Santiago el Mayor1610–1612Painting
Saint Jerome in His Study / Der heilige HieronymusCirca 1609–1610Painting
Saint Sebastian / Der heilige Sebastian1618Painting
Saints Amandus and Walburga, exterior wing of The Elevation of the Cross1609–1610Painting
Saints Catherine of Alexandria and Eligius, exterior wing of The Elevation of the Cross1609–1610Painting
Salome Presented with the Head of Saint John the BaptistCirca 1609Painting
Samson and DelilahCirca 1609–1611Painting
Satyr and Girl with a Basket of FruitCirca 1615Painting
Scipio and Hannibal before the Battle of ZamaDrawing
Self-portrait1623Painting
Self-Portrait in a Circle of Friends from MantuaCirca 1602–1605Painting
Study of the Laocoön and His Sons (after the ancient Vatican sculpture)1601–1602Drawing
Summer: Peasants Going to MarketPainting
Susanna FourmentCirca 1620Drawing
The Adoration of the Magi / L'Adoration des magesCirca 1617–1618Painting
The AnnunciationCirca 1610Painting
The Arrival of the Queen at Lyon (Meeting of King and Queen, 9 December 1600)Painting
The Assumption of the Virgin Mary1625–1626Painting
The Baptism of Christ1604–1605Painting
The Battle of Anghiari (drawing after Leonardo's lost composition)Drawing
The Battle of the Amazons / Die AmazonenschlachtCirca 1618Painting
The Capture of Jülich, 1 September 1610Painting
The Child with the Bird / Das Kind mit dem VogelPainting
The Circumcision of Christ / La Circoncisione di Gesù1605Painting
The Consequences of War1638Painting
The Defeat of Sennacherib / Die Niederlage SanheribsCirca 1617Painting
The Descent from the Cross, triptych1611–1614Painting
The Discovery of the Child Erichthonius / Die Auffindung des ErichthoniusknabenCirca 1616Painting
The Disembarkation of the Queen at Marseille, 3 November 1600Painting
The Elevation / Raising of the Cross, triptych1609–1610Painting
The Entombment / Graflegging1615–1617Drawing
The Fall of PhaetonCirca 1604–05Painting
The Feast of HerodCirca 1635–1638Painting
The Feast of Venus1636–1637Painting
The Garden of Love / El jardín del amor1630–1635Painting
The Gonzaga Family in Adoration of the Holy Trinity / La famiglia Gonzaga in adorazione della Santissima TrinitàPainting
The Head of MedusaPainting
The Hippopotamus and Crocodile HuntCirca 1616Painting
The Holy Family with Saint AnneCirca 1630Painting
The Holy Family with Saint Elizabeth and Saint John the Baptist1614–1615Painting
The Immaculate Conception1628–1629Painting
The Judgement of Paris (Prado early Italian-period version)1606–1608Painting
The Kermesse / La Kermesse (also Village Festival)Circa 1635–1638Painting
The Lamentation of Christ / Die Beweinung Christi1610–1611Painting
The Last Supper / Institution of the Eucharist1631–1632Painting
The Lion Hunt / Löwenjagd1621Painting
The Massacre of the InnocentsPainting
The Massacre of the Innocents (early Toronto version)Circa 1610Painting
The Rainbow LandscapeCirca 1636Painting
The Rape of the Daughters of Leucippus / Raub der Töchter des LeukipposCirca 1618Painting
The Resurrection of Christ, Jan Moretus epitaph triptych1611–1612Painting
The Return from the Fields / Ritorno dai campiCirca 1632–1634Painting
The Three Graces1630–1635Painting
The Triumph of the Eucharist over IdolatryCirca 1625Painting
Three Groups of Apostles in a Last Supper (recto); Three Sketches for Medea and Her Children (verso)About 1601–1602Drawing
Three Women Holding Garlands (after Francesco Primaticcio)Circa 1622–1627Drawing
Two Young Women, the One on the Left Holding a Dog / Zwei junge Frauen, die linke hält einen HundCirca 1616–1618Drawing
Venus and Adonis (Hermitage swan-chariot version)1610–1611Painting
Venus and Adonis (Metropolitan Museum late version)Painting
Venus Frigida1614Painting
Venus in Front of the Mirror / The Toilet of VenusCirca 1614–1615Painting
Venus Lamenting over the Dead AdonisCirca 1612Drawing
Venus, Amor, Bacchus und Ceres / Venus, Cupid, Bacchus and CeresCirca 1612–1613Painting
Wolf and Fox HuntCirca 1616Painting
Young Woman Looking Down (Study for the Head of Saint Apollonia)Circa 1628Drawing

Frequently Asked Questions

The Louvre says the painting was made after Rubens's Italian residence of 1600–08, perhaps 1614–18. The engraving's “pinxit Romae” inscription is explicitly treated by the museum as unreliable evidence for a Roman place of execution.

The Louvre says the partly invented ruin on the left resembles that basilica. It does not describe the passage as an exact architectural portrait. The more accurate Roman feature it singles out is San Teodoro on the right side of the Palatine view.

It is oil on wood, 76 × 107 centimetres, in the Musée du Louvre as MI 966.

The Louvre describes a composition assembled from graphic memories after Rubens's Italian years. The different architectural treatments help organize a landscape: a commanding dark ruin on one side and a smaller recognizable church on the other. No surviving source cited here establishes one exact sketch from which the entire painting was copied.

It belonged to Louis La Caze and entered through his 1869 bequest. The Louvre's online entry does not document its complete earlier ownership history.

Discussion

Compare the large dark ruin with the smaller round church across the view.

Share an observation about the painting or a reliable source that adds to its history.

Reader Insights

Close Looking

How do the trees and water carry your eye through the landscape?

Context

What feels observed, and what feels deliberately arranged?

Open Question

Why does the print inscription need caution when dating the painting?

Join the Conversation

Add your reading below, keeping observations specific and evidence clear.

References

  1. Musée du Louvre, Paysage avec les ruines du mont Palatin à Rome , MI 966. View source
  2. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640): The Drawings , Italian-period context. View source
  3. Getty Publications, Rubens and Brueghel: A Working Friendship , Paul Bril context. View source
  4. National Gallery, London, A Landscape with a Shepherd and his Flock , a distinct late landscape. View source